Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou 2004 "La Côte de Sury" Sancerre ($21.00)
This 2004 vintage returns to a traditional Sancerre profile following the recently tasted and more fruit-forward 2003 Côte de Sury. It's a transparent light-gold color. Apple and pineapple aromas are clean and youthfully fresh. Flavors are consistent with the nose, intense but not over-ripe. Tart, steely acidity meets chalky minerality in a bone-dry wine that's balanced and very fine. US Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (Feb 9, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Sancerre calls for seafood and reaches its peak with oysters; it was fine with a New England fish chowder made with fresh cod.

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