Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou 2003 "La Côte de Sury" Sancerre ($21.00)
Transparent straw color with glints of gold. Lovely mixed citrus aromas, lemon and lime, tangy grapefruit, even a hint of tangerine. Full and ripe, almost an oily mouthfeel; soft citrus, so fruity that the steely Loire acidity and old-vines minerality, though certainly present, take a back seat to the sweet and juicy fruit. Loire traditionalists may be offended, but it's a mighty slurpy Sauvignon Blanc. US Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (Feb 8, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: I think of seafood and fish in general with Sancerre, but would err on the side of richer, sweeter shellfish like lobster or crab with this fat '03. It made a surprisingly good match with a Chinese-style vegetarian dish, the tofu and bok choy stir-fry with toasted Sichuan peppers and five-spice featured in the Feb. 9, 2006 Wine Advisor FoodLetter.



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