Anselmi 2003 "I Capitelli" Veneto Passito Bianco ($29.99)
Bright gold. Candy-apple and crème caramel aromas with a subtle smoky note. Full-bodied and quite sweet, with good acidity to counterbalance the fruit sugars; golden raisins and dried stone fruit flavors, with bitter-almond notes drying out the sweetness in the finish. Interesting and complex, an excellent dessert wine and a good choice as a sweet seasonal treat for your Valentine. US Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Fla. (Feb 2, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Served after dinner as a dessert without food accompaniment. The producer, implicitly likening it to Sauternes, calls it "a divine partner" with lobster, foie gras, blue cheeses, pastries or fresh fruit.

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