Mountain Dome Brut Washington State Sparkling Wine ($16.00)
This is a clear light-gold sparkler with an active and persistent bubble stream. Apple aromas add a prickly, slighty sulfury note that's slightly reminiscent of freshly made sauerkraut, a descriptor that's not meant as negatively as it may sound to those who aren't fans of this German treat. There's no kraut in the flavor, just juicy white fruit and crisp, fresh and lingering acidity; if it's not bone-dry, there's just a hint of fresh-fruit sweetness behind the acidic tang. Not that anybody would buy wine for the label, this one's cartoonishly colorful, hippie-type gnomes might bring a chuckle to a New Year's party. US Importer: (Dec 29, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Eggs and egg dishes have a reputation, not entirely deserved, for being difficult to pair with wine. Bubbly is one of my standard egg matches, and this one worked well, with extra points for its compatibility with a chive-scented Gloucester cheese in the filling.



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