Barbadillo non-vintage Oloroso Sherry "Full Dry" ($11.99)
Strong and naturally oxidized in a unique wine-making process, Spain's Sherry is so utterly different from most table wines that it divides wine enthusiasts into opposing camps: Those who say "Yay!" and those who say "Yuk!" Mark me in the "Yay" column, particularly when summer fades into chilly, blustery autumn and something as rich and warming as this Oloroso provides a taste of comfort. Clear bronze in color, it shows flashes of orange against the light. Classic Sherry aromas remind me of fresh cracked nuts, intriguing scents that speak of pecans and hazelnuts and just a touch of darker, heavier walnuts and a whiff of maple syrup in the background. Pecans come to the fore on the palate, with hints of milk chocolate as a more subtle back note in a rich, full-bodied texture that seems slightly sweet at first but dries out completely in the finish, nicely framed with crisp fresh-fruit acidity. Pecans and a tang of lemon linger in a very long finish. US Importer: Frontier Wine Imports, Dover, N.J. (Oct 31, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: In a brilliant match-likes-with-likes pairing, it made an amazing match with a nutty, buttery three-year-old Vintage Gouda cheese.

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