Fattoria Laila 2002 Rosso Piceno ($17.00)
Very dark garnet, blackish. Fresh redcurrant scent with a lovely rainwater-over-rocks minerality on the nose and palate, with crisp red fruit flavors nicely balanced by mouth-watering acidity and subtle but perceptible tannins. Very attractive and balanced wine. US Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (Sep 30, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Like Chianti, it's classic with grilled red meat or tomato-sauced pasta dishes and cheese. But its fruit and balance made it a pleasureble match with a light meatless dinner, an omelet stuffed with Gruyère and Parmigiano.

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