André-Michel Brégeon 2002 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($9.99)
Transparent pale-brass color. Grapefruit, fresh and ripe, with a stony-mineral back note; I try to find Muscadet's "crushed sea shell" and almost think I've spotted it, but it remains elusive behind the forward fruit. Grapefruit and mixed citrus flavors follow the nose, framed by a very tart, almost piercing acidity that calls out for seafood. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Oct 28, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Oysters would have been perfect, on the half-shell or pan-fried. Fresh scallops pan-seared with butter and lemon weren't bad, but their relatively rich sweetness actually would have worked well with, er, Chardonnay.

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