Simone Santini 2003 Tenuta Le Calcinaie Chianti Colli Senesi ($15.00)
This is a very dark garnet wine, almost opaque, not exactly hazy but conveying the impression that it's unfiltered. Black fruit aromas, plums and cherries, add an attractive hint of cedar. Big, mouth-filling fruit flavors follow the nose, nicely balanced with tart, Tuscan-style acidity along with chalky tannins unusual in a Chianti, surely a legacy of the searing summer of 2003. It's not unappealing, but the tart astringency goes better with food than for sipping alone. US Importer: Vintner Select, Cincinnati (and other regional importers); a Marc di Grazia selection. (Oct 8, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Even more than the stereotypical tomato-sauced pasta, grilled red meat is the traditional match with Chianti. We went with both for a fine Tuscan dinner: Rare flatiron steaks and a bowl of spaghetti with a garlicky broccoli and fresh-tomato sauce.



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