Ocone 2004 Taburno Falanghina ($11.00)
This is a clear, pale straw-color wine with a slight greenish hue. Fresh white fruit and delicate floral notes come to gether in a pleasant aroma, but it lacks the pleasant oxidative character that I've found in many Southern Italian whites, perhaps attesting to its relative youth. Medium in body, it offers an attractive balance of forward if rather simple white fruit and fresh acidity. A cleansing food wine, if not one for deep contemplation. US Importer: Scoperta Importing Co., Cleveland Heights, Ohio (Sep 8, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Falanghina is a natural with delicate veal, seafood and fish dishes; less traditionally, it was fine with a light Asian meal of veggie shiu mai and edamame.

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