Cantine Ceci 2004 "La Luna" Lambrusco Emilia ($13.99)
An artisanal, biodynamic Lambrusco fashioned under the light of the crescent moon (I am not kidding about this), this inky-dark, almost black wine opens with a Champagne-like pop, filling the glass with a foamy head that falls back to a persistent pink froth. Very grapey aromas, black raisins and plums, lead into a bone-dry, fruit-forward flavor with a creamy carbonated mouthfeel. Good acidity, background tannins and a hint of bitter-almond in the finish make this a surprisingly "serious" table wine that just happens to have a frizzante fizz. If you're accustomed to thinking of Lambrusco in terms of Riunite or Cella, this one will reset your paradigms ... if you can find it. US Importer: Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, Kerhonkson, N.Y. (Sep 6, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: In Emilia-Romagna, they claim that Lambrusco goes with everything. It's a cliche with pizza, but as noted, I like it best as an effective if non-traditional match with fiery Asian fare. It was fine with a very spicy rendition of Kung Pao chicken with hot brown bean sauce and chile peppers.



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