Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Pineau d'Aunis Rosé ($11.99)
This is a very pale but pretty blushing-pink wine with a light copper-salmon hue. Subtle, intriguing scents offer fragrant white pepper over delicate strawberries; and there's a floral note, too, rosewater and spicy potpourri, with a minerally note that carries over to the palate with that seductive "rainwater over rocks" character that I love in Pineau d'Aunis. Crisp, dry and fresh, white pepper and rose petals in the finish; this stylish and subtle Loire delight ranks among my favorite pink wines. US Importer: LDM Wines Inc. (Louis/Dressner), NYC. (Aug 11, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Excellent for sipping on its own, just lightly chilled - ice-cold service would mute its delicious subtlety - or with delicate seafood dishes. A slab of pecan-smoked sea bass went well enough, although I'm still solving the mysteries of my stovetop smoker and would have liked it better with a little less assertive smoke.

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