M. Chapoutier 2002 Belleruche Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc ($11.99)
This clear, light-gold wine shows the intriguing minerality and pleasantly oxidative character that often begins to show in Rhône whites even after just a year or two in the bottle: White fruit, beeswax, honey, a hint of almond, a whiff of banana oil and a sense of wet granite, so complex and shifting that it takes a while to sort it all out. It's a bit more straightforward on the palate but very pleasant, white fruit and stony minerality; tart acidity builds a firm structure and lasts into a long finish. US Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, Ill. (Jul 4, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: I'd suggest it as a classic match with freshwater fish or goat cheeses, but it also made a great cross-cultural pairing with vegetarian Chinese dim sum dumplings.

WEB LINK: http://www.chapoutier.com/

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