Meulenhof 2002er Erdener Treppchen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Kabinett ($14.99)
Very pale straw color with a distinct greenish-brass hue. Light, delicate aromas focus on juicy citrus fruit with an elusive back note that's hard to pin down but that evokes pretty if more emotional than objective images of spring breezes over flowery meadows. Fresh and slightly prickly on the palate with just a tickle of petillant carbonation; then juicy strawberries and musky melon, backed by distinct sweetness, more than I usually expect in a Kabinett, held in bounds by tart, tingling acidity. US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; A Terry Theise Selection. (May 31, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Riesling is one of the most versatile food wines, well suited to accompany a broad range of dishes that encompass just about every edible but rare red meat. It was very fine with a Japanese-accented dinner of fresh yellowtail tuna seared sushi-rare and finished with sushi and lemon juice, ginger, garlic and wasabi.



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