Bottega Vinaia 2001 Trentino Lagrein ($17.99)
This wine is very dark reddish-purple, almost black in the glass. Dark, brooding aromas focus on black plums and earth with a very subtle, pleasant "barnyard" note in the background. Ripe, juicy fruit seems almost sweet on the first taste impression, but crisp, lemon-squirt acidity enters on the mid-palate and turns the flavor steely and bone-dry. Ripe plums and a citric snap persist in a very long finish. An excellent wine, demonstrates Lagrein's potential to rank among the big-name grape varieties. US Importer: Palm Bay Imports Inc., Boca Raton, Fla. (Mar 10, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: The wine is dark and rich enough to stand up to red meat, but subtle enough to work and play well with more delicate fare. It made an exceptional match with ossobuco bianco, its lemon-squirt acidity echoing the snappy flavors in the gremolata (lemon zest, garlic and parsley blend) used to finish the dish.



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