Galli & Broccatelli 1998 Montefalco Sagrantino ($18.99)
This is a clear, very dark garnet wine, blackish-purple at the core. Lovely black-fruit aromas are accented with violets and attractive "tarry" notes surprisingly reminiscient of Nebbiolo, and the wine is not unlike a Barolo or Barbaresco on the palate, too: Big, brooding black fruit and firm acidity, almost forbiddingly tannic upon first opening. It softens with vigorous aeration and a little time in the glass to reveal black cherries and whiffs of fennel, smooth tannins providing good structure and body, with clean hearbal fruit and a pleasant hint of bitterness in a very long finish. Although the wine sees three full years of aging in French oak barrels, the oak is beautifully integrated and not at all intrusive. US Importer: Winebow Inc., NYC; Leonardo Locascio Selection. (Feb 1, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Rare red meat or even game would serve it well; it was fine, too, with a pasta dish crafted to match, nearly rare duck breast tossed with sauteed red and green bell peppers and red onions in a subtle chipotle cream.

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