Domaine Leon Barral 2001 Faugères Jadis ($19.99)
Blackish-purple, opaque. Ripe plum and black-cherry scents dominate a fruit-forward aroma, but there's plenty of earth to carry an Old World style: Leather and pleasant "barnyard" notes add complexity. Full-bodied, juicy and tart flavors, fresh black fruit and a hint of dark chocolate, nicely structured by crisp acidity; smooth tannins emerge as a cleansing astringency in a long finish, with a distinct whiff of fresh herbs and earthy grace notes that mirror the nose. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan 5, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Although the wine's full body could stand up to grilled red meats, its complexity rewards pairing with more subtle flavors. It was a great match with rollatini de versa e maile, Marcella Hazan's pork-stuffed cabbage rolls in a light tomato-and-onion sauce.

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