Coriole 2003 McLaren Vale Chenin Blanc ($14.00)
This is a clear and very pale straw-color wine with a distinct greenish-brassy hue. Its aroma is focused on ripe, juicy lemons, with an appealing touch of musky melon in the background. There's tart lemon and mixed white fruit in a full flavor that seems bone-dry; any residual sweetness is more than cloaked by firm, structural acidity. There's intriguing contrast in a flavor that's rich and full yet steely and dry, a seeming contradiction that plays out in excellent balance, with subtle minerality joining bright, lemony acidity in a long finish. Looking for Loire analogies, it reminds me more of a Saumur or a Quincy - or maybe even a Savennieres - than a Vouvray, but something about the bold overall package stamps it as Australian. US Importer: Robert Whale Selections Ltd., Washington, D.C. (Dec 16, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Very well suited indeed with a Northeastern Italian chicken-and-pasta dish from Marcella Hazan's new cookbook, Marcella says, "Blasut's chicken-thigh pasta sauce with herbs, tomatoes and white wine."



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