Marenco 2000 Bric Dolcetto di Dogliani ($12.99)
Clear but very dark garnet. Black cherry scent with smoky and "tarry" nuances. Fresh fruit and earthy flavors are consistent with the nose, mouth-filling and tartly acidic. A good food wine, if hardly a "little sweet one." US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Mar 28, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: A fresh arugula and caper topping turns a simple pizza into an exceptional match.

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