Champalou 2002 "La Cuvée des Foudraux" Vouvray ($15.99)
This wine's transparent pale-gold color is reflected on the nose and palate in a wine of exceptional clarity and depth: Delicate, appealing aromas add a distinct floral scent (I say lilac, my wife says gardenia) over honey and almonds and a distant hint of clean, damp wool. All the above carries over to the palate: Luscious, gentle fresh white fruit, soft sweetness held up by a steely core of lemon-squirt acidity. Beautiful balance, clean and very long. Although it's an excellent candidate for cellaring, it's hard to keep hands off now. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Nov 8, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: I paired it with a simplified version of the pasta, ham and vegetable gratin (sort of an upscale macaroni-and-cheese) in Jacques Pepin's Fast Food My Way. And yes, it would be excellent with Thanksgiving turkey and the trimmings.

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