Donnafugata 2002 "Sedàra" Nero d'Avola Sicilia ($11.99)
Typical of Nero d'Avola, this is a richly colored wine, inky dark-ruby and almost blackish in the glass. Also typical is a "New World" aroma of exuberant, forward, almost over-the-top fruit, blueberries and cream with accent notes of vanilla and spice. Same on the palate, blueberry fruit so ripe that it seems almost off-dry, held barely in restraint with tart acidity; there's a warm kick in the finish that suggests high alcohol, although the label claims only a relatively modest 13.5 percent. A hearty wine that will appeal to those who like their reds in the brawny, ripe "modern" style. US Importer: William Grant & Sons Inc., NYC. (Oct 9, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: This dark, tooth-staining wine requires a hearty food companion; I brought pork chops up to meet it by braising them with an extra ration of sweet caramelized onions; char-grilled steaks should also serve it well.



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