Domaine le Sang des Cailloux 1999 Vacqueyras ($17.99)
Clear but very dark garnet, bright at the edge. Big and appealing aroma, plums and raspberries with floral and subtle black-pepper notes. Big and bold on the palate too, berry fruit wrapped up with lemony acidity and soft but perceptible tannins. Drinking very well but capable of aging; its style shows its kinship with nearby Chateauneuf-du-Pape, right down to the papal keys embossed in the bottle glass. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Mar 16, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's forward berry fruit makes it a good match, despite its robust flavors, with Sguazeto de Vedel, a simple veal stew from Trieste simmered with onions and a whiff of cinnamon, from Fred Plotkin's Friuli cookbook, "La Terra Fortunata."

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