Domaine Réméjeanne 2003 Chevrefeuilles Côtes du Rhône ($12.99)
Very dark reddish-purple, black at the core. Luscious raspberry aromas with herbal accents of fennel in the aroma. Fragrant black pepper joins ripe, tart berries on the palate, mouth-filling and fresh. There's a load of fruit and plenty of acidic structure here in an excellent table wine, balanced and appealing; smooth but perceptible tannins and a pleasant earthy note become more evident in the long finish. US Importer: Europvin USA, Oakland, Calif. (Sep 25, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Beautiful with a dinner crafted to match: Lamb burgers, not for the faint-hearted with their natural gaminess brought up with blue cheese and a few minced anchovies, accompanied by a slaw that fused Provencal and Asian flavors with raw fennel sliced paper-thin with red onions and cucumbers in a peanut vinaigrette.

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