Garretson 2001 Vogelzang Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley "Table 62" Viognier ($16.00)
This clear, bright-gold wine breathes intense scents of orange blossom borne on heavy cream, nostalgically evoking childhood memories of Dreamsicles. Full, bold fruit flavors blend orange peel and lemon-lime with a distinct note of toasted coconut. It shows its 14.2% alcohol with a big, mouth-filling and warm mouthfeel, with orange and coconut lingering in a very long finish. Put through full malolactic fermentation and aged for eight months on its yeast lees in "neutral" oak barrels, it's not a wine for those who seek a delicate Viognier; but it handles its heady alcohol and abundant fruit with deft balance in a memorable if idiosyncratic wine. US Importer: (Sep 3, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: It made a stunning match with a dish invented to match, thin-pounded pork loin rolled around prawns and caramelized onions and accented with a quick wasabi cream sauce. (See the Sept. 9, 2004 Wine Advisor FoodLetter for the details.)

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