Borsao 2002 Campo de Borja ($7.99)
This bright, cherry-red wine is a blend of 75 percent Garnacha plus Tempranillo, made in the Campo de Borja wine region in Northeastern Spain, not far from Rioja. Its full, forward aromas can only be described as "exuberant," ripe red-berry fruit and a distinctive mix of black and white pepper. With time in the glass, it opens up to even more heady fruit, as luscious and sweet as raspberry Kool-Aid. It's not sweet but appropriately dry and tart in the mouth, though, fresh berry fruit and fragrant pepper held up by lemony, mouth-watering acidity; there's a wisp of dry tannins in the finish. A real "fruit bomb," it's neither elegant nor austere, but it shows complexity and balance unusual in a low-end wine. US Importer: Cutting Edge Selections, Fairfax, Ohio, and other regional importers; from Jorge Ordoñez. (Aug 10, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with grilled steaks, or for that matter, just about any red meat or sharp cheese.



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