Domaine Réméjeanne 2000 "Les Genévriers" Côtes du Rhone Villages ($14.99)
This is an inky dark-purple, wine, almost black and opaque in the glass, with glints of garnet against the light. Black fruit and anise aromas dominate, with a conifer-like whiff of something akin to juniper that may be a trick of mental association with the vineyard name "Les Genévriers" ("the juniper trees"). The aromas carry over intact in the flavor, adding typical Rhone-red notes of black pepper and raw beef, characteristics that make it a natural with red meat. Warm and full, with a sharp cutting edge of acidity and astringent tannins. A blend of Grenache and Syrah with a dash of Mourvédre, it's about as big and bold as Cotes-du-Rhone gets, and could use still more cellar time. US Importer: USA Wine Imports, NYC, for Vineyard Expressions of Ithaca, N.Y. (Jul 11, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Grass-fed ribeye steak, grilled medium-rare over hot charcoal and garnished with mild poblano peppers roasted over the same coals, made a first-rate match for this hearty red.

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