Calina 2001 Maule Valley Carmenère Reserve ($7.99)
This Chilean wine is inky dark-purple in color, almost black in the glass. Warm, plummy fruit aromas are surrounded with smoky, toasty scents of oak. Fresh black plums and blueberries rise up with swirling and carry over intact on the palate, where ripe, juicy fruit is joined by lemon-squirt acidity, with spicy oak as an accent. Warm and fruity, it's an approachable wine, frankly made more in the style of an international-style "glass of red" than a wine that speaks of its land or grape of origin. But it's nicely structured and balanced, enjoyable to drink, and it's hard to quibble with that for $7.99. US Importer: Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates Ltd., Santa Rosa, Calif. (Jun 6, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with a turkey thigh long and gently grilled in warm hickory smoke, Texas barbecue-style.



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