St. Urbans-Hof 2002 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling ($10.99)
This wine, typical of Mosel Rieslings, is almost as pale as water, showing just a light greenish-straw color. Its initial aroma impact shows evidence of a wine made on the yeast "lees" with yeasty, "cheesy" aromas, not unpleasant but speaking more of earth than fruit; it's worth pouring the wine with vigorous aeration a half-hour before serving, though, as these aromas blow off to reveal appetizing juicy, limey citrus fruit. Limes and lemons show on the palate, too, with hints of peach, and light fresh-fruit sweetness fully balanced by steely "minerally" acidity. Gentle 10 percent alcohol makes this an obvious candidate for aperitif quaffing, but its exceptional affinity for food earns it a place at the dinner table. US Importer: HB Wine Merchants, NYC. (May 16, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: At the suggestion of German-winefanatic pals, I paired this with a citric, lemony chicken dish and found it an excellent match with chicken breast "scallopine" sauteed with lemon juice and finished with fresh tarragon and a bit of butter.



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