Athesia 2002 Nero d'Avola Sicilia ($11.99)
Fruit in wine is good, or so most wine lovers say ... but this Sicilian "fruit bomb" almost takes the premise to excess in a wine that will excite some but may horrify others. Very dark reddish-purple in the glass with a "day-glo" edge, it blasts from the glass with a startling burst of ripe blueberry aromas, eerily reminiscent of Kool-Aid with an added hint of the familiar artificial-strawberry quality of "Neapolitan" ice cream. "Outrageous" blueberries carry over in the flavor, soft and seemingly sweet on the tip of the tongue, gaining lemon-squirt acidity to provide reasonable structure in the finish. US Importer: Winesource USA, Wilmington, Del. (Apr 5, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: A "fruit bomb" that demands robust flavors to match; it went well enough with a simple chef's salad brought up to meat it with cubes of spicy Calabrian-style salame and chunks of earthy Point Reyes California blue cheese.

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