Osborne 1997 Late Bottled Vintage Porto ($16.99)
This LBV Port was bottled in 2002, five years after the vintage. Clear but very dark reddish-purple in color, it shows pleasantly complex aromas with plums and anise in the foreground, cherries and spice lurking behind them, with a sharp "vinous" edge that hints at its fortification with brandy. Full and round, sweet black-fruit flavors seem almost soft on the first taste, but "grippy" acidity and rather coarse tannins fill in structure as the wine crosses the palate. It ends as it began, with plums, anise and light spice in the finish. US Importer: W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., Harrison, N.Y. (Mar 24, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: I like sweet wines best as dessert rather than with dessert, but it's also fine with a chunk of blue cheese, from Roquefort to Stilton to California Point Reyes blue, and very dark, not-too-sweet chocolate desserts can also make a persuasive match with young Port.

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