Caparoso 2002 Baden Pinot Gris ($20.00)
This is a very pale straw-color wine, with fresh and appealing melon aromas. On the palate it presents crisp honeydew melon and gentle acidity in perfect balance, with a medium-bodied texture that becomes increasingly lush as the wine warms in the glass. A delicious wine, it seems so fresh and quenching that you're tempted to gulp it, but its clean, subtle delicacy is interesting enough to justify slowing down for more contemplative sipping. US Importer: USA Wine West, San Rafael, Calif. (Mar 15, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Randy Caparoso says this wine is styled for "contemporary, sauce- (or texture-) oriented cuisines and perhaps even better in new style dishes (especially 'raw' foods) couched in natural vinaigrettes." I respect that, but can testify that it also made a stunning match with good old-fashioned corned beef and cabbage (albeit with a quality corned brisket from a natural, hormone-free beef supplier).



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