Sierra Cantabria Cosecha 1997 Crianza Rioja ($11.99)
Very dark garnet, almost black. Delicious fresh-fruit aroma, cherries and vanilla with a whiff of spice. Flavors are consistent with the nose, juicy cherry fruit and lemony acidity. Good with dinner and quite sippable alone. US Importer: Cutting Edge Selections, Cincinnati. (Feb 19, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Rioja would be fine with steaks or lamb chops, of course; but we fashion a remarkably good meatless match with a hearty mushroom and red-wine sauce over fusilli (corkscrew) pasta.

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