Romano Clelia 1999 "Colli di Lapio" Fiano di Avellino ($18.99)
This bright straw-color wine offers aromatic impressions of white fruit, banana oil and toasted almonds, but as it turns out, we don't find much evidence of the suggested "pears and hazelnuts" in this example; perhaps just a hint of soft pearlike fruit emerges after the wine warms to room temperature. The wine's flavor is crisp and citric, not particularly complex, tart with fresh-fruit acidity and a faint bitter-almond quality in the finish. It's an interesting wine to be sure, and a good food match. US Importer: Vintner Select, Cincinnati; a Marc de Grazia Selection. (Jan 1, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Very well suited with veal ossobuco bianco, veal shanks long-braised in white wine with a "gremolata" of minced parsley, garlic and lemon peel added at the end.

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