Chateau d'Orschwihr 2000 Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Bollenberg ($14.99)
Clear straw color, with a golden hue. Forward and complex citric aromas, grapefruit and lemon-lime, add complexity with a hint of orange-blossom honey and a lovely scent that evokes wet stones after a rain. Full and ripe, creamy mouthfeel becomes almost unctuous as the wine warms in the glass; there may be just a touch of sweetness, but it's not out of place in the bold context of acidity, powerful (14.9 percent) alcohol and stony minerality. US Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland. (Mar 15, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Wines as bold as this aren't always easy food matches, but it had what it took to stand up to a flavorful holiday meal of juicy corned beef with potatoes, onions and cabbage.



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