Lustau Rare Amontillado Escuadrilla ($15.99)
Clear bronze-amber color, not too dark. Pleasant fresh-cracked pecan scents gain complexity from a whiff of the aroma that Sherry experts call "rancio," an earthy but pleasant character akin to overripe fruit. Mouth-filling but bone-dry, butter-pecan, alcoholic warmth and tart, tangy lemon-squirt acidity come together in balance to make a fine after-dinner sipper. US Importer: Europvin USA, Oakland, Calif., selected by Christopher Cannan. (Mar 2, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Best enjoyed by itself after dinner, although a bowl of cracked nuts and a wedge of blue cheese would not be amiss.



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