Domaine Hervé Arlaud 1999 Morey-Saint-Denis Ier Cru "Aux Chezeaux" ($25.00)
Dark garnet in color, rich purple at the edge, this unfiltered bottling produced specifically for North Berkeley ("Cuvee Unique") breathes ripe black plums and a distinct note of the earthy "barnyard" quality that's often, though not always, a signature of red Burgundy, accented with hints of brown spice. Flavors follow the nose, juicy fruit shaped by tart, lemon-squirt acidity. Tannins are not immediately apparent, and a beatiful tart-sweet pomegranate flavor emerges in the lingering finish. US Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan 27, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: Just right with the simple, gently piquant Burgundian pork-chop dish featured in the Jan. 29, 2004, Wine Advisor FoodLetter, Mireille Johnston's Côtes de Porc au Vinaigre.



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