Yves Boyer-Martenot 2001 Meursault "La Pré de Manche" ($18.50)
Light-gold in color, this wine breathes a heady scent of pears, fresh, ripe and juicy with a hint of spice, like sniffing a hot pear compote. Full and ripe, mouth-filling and luscious, it's fat, slightly sweet, lubricated with butter and framed in oak, "New World" in style but held up with sufficient acidity for structure. Atypical Meursault with a "mid-Atlantic" accent so marked that those who seek "typicity" might find it alarming; it's no "benchmark" Meursault. On the other hand it's hard to quibble with its remarkable fruit and muscularity. Relax, and enjoy. US Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan 9, 2004)

FOOD MATCH: A simple roast chicken makes an ideal foil.

WEB LINK: http://www.northberkeleyimports.com/

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Wine-Searcher.com

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