Lover's Leap 2002 Estate Cynthiana ($13.00)
Made in Kentucky from the unusual native Cynthiana grape (also known as Norton), this is a very dark ruby-colored wine with reddish-purple glints. Its aroma is exceptionally ripe, concentrated and "jammy," candied fruit and spice, on the grapey side. It's more balanced in flavor, good red-berry fruit shaped by snappy acidity. Its robust body and concentration are reminiscent of a big Zin, but it has a distinct personality all its own. US Importer: (Dec 20, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with a hearty dish of leftover pork tossed with new potatoes and sharp white Cheddar.

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