Monte Antico 1998 Toscano ($9.99)
Dark ruby. Ripe black-fruit aromas are built on a base of caramel. Tart cherry flavors are fresh if a bit thin; good fresh-fruit acidity and a whiff of dried fruit show in the medium-long finish. US Importer: Empson (U.S.A.) Inc., Alexandria, Va. (Feb 6, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: It makes a fair vegetarian match with a barley orzotto with leeks and carrots: The flavors sing, but the intensity of this acidic red is a bit much for balance; a crisp white might have served even better.



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