Domaine Maume 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin ($24.99)
Clear ruby, not overly dark in color. Appetizing cherry aromas with a pleasant earthiness, well short of "barnyard," to add complexity in the nose. Ripe and juicy fruit flavors, tart and fresh, over a balanced structure of crisp acidity and slightly bitter tannins. Seems to close down in the glass after an hour or two, suggesting that it's still well short of mature. An unusually elegant Burgundy at a price that's toward the low end for the genre. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Nov 9, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Burgundies work well with beef and sing with salmon, but one of my favorite matches is wild mushrooms. This one worked very well with a simple dish of penne with porcini and white mushrooms in a light ricotta sauce.

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