Domaine Roulot 1998 Monthelie ($9.99)
Clear ruby color. Perfumed brown-spice aromas, appetizing but frankly more focused on spice than fruit; opens up very gradually with swirling and time in the glass. Simple, fresh red-fruit flavors, more open on the palate than the nose, clean if a bit light and short at first. After an hour in the glass, it opens up to good dried-cherry fruit and perceptible dry tannins, hinting at some potential for aging. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Nov 9, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with wild-mushroom pasta, showing Burgundy's affinity for mushrooms.

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