Domaine A.-F. Gros 1996 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($9.99)
Clear ruby in color with no hint of brown, still youthful looking in the glass, this pleasant Burgundy offers fresh red fruit aromas and earthy notes with a distant, palatable hint of "barnyard." Fresh and tart red fruit flavors show a distinct acidic snap. There's still plenty of fruit and good structure in an appealing but rather simple wine that's probably best with food. US Importer: New Castle Imports Inc., Myrtle Beach, S.C. (Aug 7, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Pinot Noir in general and Burgundy in particular shows an affinity for mushrooms; this one made a fine match with the intense mushroom risotto featured in the September-October 2003 edition of my favorite food magazine, Cook's Illustrated.



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