Mas Janeil 2000 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages ($9.99)
A fragrant dose of black pepper signals that there's Syrah and plenty of it in this rustic red wine from Roussillon, the western edge of Languedoc in the Pyrennees where France meets Spain and local folks speak Catalan. Inky dark reddish-purple in color, it adds plummy fruit and a whiff of floral perfume to that characteristic pepper. Black pepper is evident on the palate, too, in a full, spicy flavor with good body, smooth tannins and plenty of crisp acidity for balance. Fine with food. US Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (Aug 10, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with just about any red meat or even roast poultry; it made a delicious match with smoky, spicy-sauced "pulled pork" from a local barbecue joint.

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