Chateau Le Mas 2000 Bordeaux ($8.99)
Inky garnet, almost black, this simple Bordeaux falls on the "green" and "weedy" side of the aroma spectrum. A volatile whiff of furniture polish is offputting at first, but this soon blows off to reveal herbaceous but attractive scents that reflect the characteristic cedary "cigar box" and herbal "lead pencil" aromas of Bordeaux over fresh red fruit. Its rather fat and full flavor comes as a surprise in the wake of the lean aromas, but it's juicy and quaffable, with sufficient fresh-fruit acidity and a smooth but marked tannic astringency emerging in the finish. A lot of complexity here, but some awkwardness too. Might be worth holding for a while to see if things come together. US Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (Jul 27, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's herbal character and fruit make it a natural companion for grilled lamb.

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