Viña Borgia 2001 Campo de Borja Grenache ($5.99)
Although Viña Borgia is a longtime favorite for a very low-end value price, I find the 2001, with 14% alcohol claimed on the label, pushes the limits for balance. Dark ruby in color, it offers typical Grenache ripe-raspberry aromas with nuances of brown sugar and an edge of charry smoke. Simple black-fruit flavors are warm, full and somewhat pruney, with lemony acidity to give it balance. Rustic and a little rough, it's a decent "spaghetti wine," but it seems a little less refined than previous offerings under this label. US Importer: Jorge Ordoñez, represented by Cutting Edge Selections of Fairfax, Ohio, and other regional importers. (Jul 12, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Red meat; it was OK with a pork chop but perhaps better with a steak.

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