Danzante 1998 Sangiovese delle Marche ($9.99)
In a widely publicized joint venture, Mondavi of California and Frescobaldi of Tuscany recently joined forces to produce a pricey line of Tuscan wines called Luce and Lucente. While they were at it, they also fashioned this not-so-pricey Sangiovese from the Marches region on the Adriatic coast east of Rome. Made in steel without a whisper of oak, it's dark ruby with reddish-purple highlights in the glass. It offers tart cherries and Sangiovese spice on the nose and palate, with a distant earthy whiff of "barnyard." Fresh fruit makes for easy sipping, while acidity as snappy as a squirt of lemon brings it up to food. There's nothing fancy about it, neither subtle nor complex, but it's a decent, affordable table red. US Importer: RM Imports, Napa, Calif. (Jul 20, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Sangiovese's snappy fruit makes it a natural partner with tomatoes in any form, from red-sauced pasta to my choice, a simple spaghetti salsa cruda, tossed with fresh raw tomatoes, basil and garlic.

WEB LINK: http://www.danzantewines.com/

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