Chateau Lyonnat 2000 Lussac-Saint-Emilion ($16.99)
Very dark garnet. Cherries and dark-chocolate aromas gain interest from notes of black olives and wood smoke; swirling the glass brings up the fruit. Ripe, full black-fruit flavor shows significant tannins, but they're soft and "sweet," making for an approachable young wine (especially with red meat) that will likely gain still more flavor interest with time in the bottle. US Importer: Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (Jun 28, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Tannic young reds need rare red meat, and a lean, fat-free locally grown buffalo steak made a fine companion with its just faintly gamey beef-like flavor.

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