Domaine Vincent Girardin 1999 Santenay "Le Saint Jean" ($17.99)
Clear golden color with a yellowish hue that may reflect oak, time in the bottle, or both. Rich scents of apples and chestnuts waft from the glass, developing notes of creme brulee with airing. Dry and full, fruit and oak work together in a complex, balanced flavor that's rich and long. Attractive wine, although traditionalists will note that it speaks with a distinct "Mid-Atlantic" accent, halfway between the Old World and the New. US Importer: Vineyard Brands Inc., Birmingham, Ala. (May 31, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: A fine match with pork chops braised with onions and garlic shoots ("scapes") with a pan reduction enriched with a bit of creme fraiche.



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