Kim Crawford 2002 Marlborough Unoaked Chardonnay ($18.99)
This bright, fresh New Zealand white is sealed with a Stelvin brand screwcap, a modern closure that looks so much like a traditional "capsule" that I used my "foilcutter" to snip off the end before realizing that I was supposed to unscrew it. The new closure did an excellent job of protecting the pale straw-color contents, which showed a clean ripe-apple scent as fresh as just-squeezed cider; whiffs of butterscotch add appetizing nuances as the wine airs in the glass. The flavor is focused on apples, too, fresh and so fruity that it seems sweet, although its reported residual sugar is actually below most people's threshold of perception. It's a quaffable wine, although a bit on the simple and uncomplicated side. US Importer: Phillips-Hogue, Esparto, Calif. (May 31, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Went well to wash down pork chops braised with onion and garlic, although the wine's simple fruit made it more a quencher than an active participant in the pairing.

WEB LINK: http://www.kimcrawfordwines.co.nz

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