Georges Duboeuf 2000 Moulin-A-Vent "Aged in Oak" ($12.59)
Oak aging is quite unusual in Beaujolais, so the English-language legend "aged in oak for six months" on the label makes this one from the "Cru" village of Moulin-a-Vent stand out. Unfortunately, the idiosyncratic oak treatment does it no favor. Dark garnet in color, it shows perfumed red-fruit aromas and flavors, strawberries and spice, but adds less attractive "vinous" aromas of alchol and piercing volatile acidity framed by rather raw notes of wood. Tart red-fruit flavors leave a hot and rather harsh finish with discordant notes of volatility and alcohol that makes me wonder whether the 13 percent listed on the label is accurate. Not undrinkable, but to be frank, one glass did not invite a second. US Importer: Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, Ill. (Jun 1, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Served with a light dinner of free-range eggs scrambled with potatoes and mushrooms, chosen to complement an earthy red wine, the oaky Beaujolais' rough edges made it less than an appealing partner.



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