Castello d'Albola 1998 Chianti Classico Riserva ($19.99)
Very dark ruby, with a reddish glint. Spice and black plum aromas add a distinct note of dark chocolate with airing. Tart black-fruit and spicy oak flavors give way to warm tannins and lemon-squirt acidity in the finish. US Importer: Wine Wave Inc., Jericho, N.Y. (Feb 16, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: You can thank that lingering, almost sour tartness for Chianti's particularly affectionate marriage with tomato-sauced Italian dishes. It was a fine match with rigatoni and sausage in a spicy, fennel-laced tomato sauce.

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